Among the first there are those mermaid, with specific sensors on the inside or outside the vehicle starts playing when someone approaches the car. The sound should be a deterrent to thieves but not really hard to defuse it, so this type of theft is not a secure system to protect their cars and hardly reliable. Another type of electronic theft is c.d. immobilizer, which prevents the car to get going without the key to breaking the electrical circuit. Although it may seem more reliable than the previous device in question can easily defuse and therefore unsafe, to the point that many refuse to take out insurance policies for cars so equipped.

The other type of car alarms, most notably those of satellite positioning systems that use, such as a siren, sensors can detect are the danger. Using the GPS can also easily know where the car is as this information is transferred to the phone owner via SMS. At this point it is easy to retrieve their car. However in the absence of the satellite signal does not work and therefore is useless in areas where the signal is intermittent or no.

Do not forget that there are special appliances that can reverse the signal even 100 meters away. These are known as mobile jammers and “white noise generators” whose instructions are accessible to all on the Internet. With these devices becomes extremely easy for any thief to open the machine and put it in motion and once completed the theft and brought the car “safe”, the burglar can remove the noise and no one can find the car.

It is not difficult to obtain a similar unit. In fact I found many internets although they are legal. The only people allowed to use these devices are the forces for defense only in specific situations and places. The means to prevent operation of car alarms satellite do not end there. There are also covers of lead or CD, or call repeaters that are designed to keep busy the number recorded in the satellite system. As told by a remarkably high but the other scares us to ask how do insurance to protect themselves from everything. In some cases, contracts include a clause which states the need to ensure that the satellite alarm is working properly and it began operation in case of theft.

The third family includes alarms than mechanical. These seem to offer the highest degree of safety and reliability for the fact that mechanically prevent the thief to steal it. Examples of this type of alarms are:

* Steering lock
Blocking the barrel prevents the movement of the steering wheel. To remove this lock the car it takes time, a factor that is missing to thieves, who instead should seek to accomplish their mission quickly, or risk being seen. Single request wisely and remember to insert and check the lock

*Locks pedals
Acts, just as the name says, locking the pedals

* Immobilizer
Starts playing and stops at the same time the hydraulic system of the car in case of danger. In practice this is a car alarm that combines two: one that operates the device and an electronic key that defuses and you cannot play

This is a burglar easy to use, as is automatic, reliable and secure. Let’s see how it works. We have said that works by blocking the hydraulic system that is both the friction that the brakes but we can say more precisely the mechanism, activated by a mechanical key consists of a valve that pushes the brake and clutch fluid on preventing reflux and stopping the machine.

Electronic anti-theft

Now let’s see how they work the electronic theft. Their operation is based on a unit, placed inside them that is equipped with electronic siren. Their effectiveness against the thieves but is not guaranteed as these devices are usually installed in the compartment containing the engine, so the thieves can easily access and destroy the unit. You may install a solenoid valve on the tube through which passes the fuel in a way that makes it easily accessible to malicious or a locking fuel pump. All will be operated and managed by the ECU. These alarms will add a radio-controlled model that serves as a keychain. They are very practical as they can be entered simply by pressing a button and simultaneously close the car but have drawbacks. Thieves can decode it easily some of these models. At this point you may think that thieves cannot be against anything and especially how they can copy the code on the remote. Say it is not easy but if you are motivated enough as are the thieves you can succeed.

The first step to clone a similar device is to find the frequency that typically range from 433,050 and 433,790 MHz, values published in the Official Gazette. Frequencies greater than or less than these values are not legal. Found the frequency must discover the source code. This is achieved using a decoder that, thanks to a microprocessor, when you close the machine stores numbers that make up the code but its range is only 10 meters. After registering the code, the decoder transmits it to a transmitter that has a watt of power, is able to neutralize the alarm and open the doors of the car.

Now approaching a remote control with self-learning, which costs only 30 euros, the decoder will result in the cloning of code quickly.

Burglar alarm siren car

It is the most widespread of electronic alarms but it turns unsafe, and not very practical, and often annoying. It happens that the siren starts to ring without reason, perhaps when people spend a short distance from the car but not touching, and this obviously disturbs the public peace. In some towns like Turin, this lock is not well seen, so much so that measures are taken mainly fines for those who put the alarm at certain times of the day

It must be said that if the car is parked in an area far from our office or from our house the usefulness of this type of warning is in vain because it would be difficult to hear the siren. Often the antitheft sensors in question are not well tested and too sensitive. In this regard, it could then choose to install an antitheft system that can block the starting of the car preventing it sets in motion or give the mermaid a kind of pager capable of sending radio signals up to 2 km away .

That way if someone tries to steal our car to the pager immediately with a beep informs us of the danger without disturbing others. This system will cost about 70 euros, but in an excellent way to receive the signals should be equipped with a transmitting antenna. The thieves, however, also know as “defend themselves” from this type of system.

When the siren sounds of the machine flashing arrows, removing one of these, when the alarm is activated causing a short circuit and fuses burn. The siren does not sound like this anymore. However there is a solution to this problem! Simply install two fuses on the antitheft device that operates the arrows so as to isolate the arrows by allowing this siren sound even if the burning arrows.

Mechanical anti-theft

The alarm switch is definitely among the most effective for that, being visible, it tends to discourage attackers, at least inexperienced thieves trying to steal our car. However, this type of theft can be very effective only if accompanied by an electronic alarm that can prevent the starting of the machine. One of the most popular mechanical burglar alarms is that the chain is applied between the seats and steering wheel and binds with a special lock. It is very similar to the system called an umbrella, a steel axle that is placed between the steering wheel and pedals.

The more experienced thieves will have no difficulty finding the way around this anti-theft system. Indeed not think twice to bisect the steering wheel to turn off the alarm instead of sawing the lock or chain. Same goes for the shaft is placed in a position transverse to the wheel, obviously with the lock. No one could drive a car that ah the wheel but the thieves have learned that too, do not miss them the means and possibilities to replace it with another, overcoming this problem easily and quickly.

Regarding the pedal block parties concerned are the pedals of the car brake and clutch is between them is that place. Initially, given the obvious difficulty of cutting the steel rod which is the theft, this could be a reliable and secure. However, the most experienced thieves, even driving, be able to turn it off without major problems by increasing the revs of the car and pulling the handbrake. Surely that will not be able to walk long stretches of road but may be sufficient to lose track of the vehicle. Other anti-theft system is mechanical lock with a key, a wheel.

Given the difficulties in starting the car, this comes as quite safe and reliable. However, we must be careful that it does not protrude too much outwards might otherwise do harm to those who pass by the car. Not so sure you can define the consisting of steel rod connecting the lever of the handbrake to the change. The low level of security is the fact that uh thief can easily break the steel making up the auction.

Block-shaft

Without doubt it is more reliable and sophisticated mechanical antitheft offered so far by the market.

What makes it so secure is its complicated operation which tends to discourage criminals. This system is the result of work of some specialists in 1993 created this product so effective in protecting our cars. Above is a discrete device that is hidden on the steering column, even preserving the aesthetics of the machine.

Let’s retrace the steps of evolution of this anti-theft system. The adventure begins in the 19995 block-shaft when the seat of Fasano is produced in craft-Block Shaft2. Two years later, it was in 1997, production is industrialized and increases product reliability. Success came in 1998 with the participation in the Bologna Motor Show. In 2001 the company moved in Monopoli, near Bari, and today the staff includes 80 employees and a customer care that takes care of customers, secured by the toll always on (80151 151) and this is the national territory and Europe.

Certainly it is the owner of the car itself has connected or disconnected every time because you do not activate automatically. It is impossible to duplicate the key to the lock while you may decide to apply the lamp and the buzzer, which aims to alert the attacker that the car is mounted on a shaft block and the owner of the car, disconnect

What we can say at the expense of this system? First, the price is low and because it can not be removed, we should give it to the new owner of our car if we decide to sell. Finally those who have chosen this type of device will save on insurance contract with respect to fire and theft. If you need any other queries, please visit the blockshaftgroup.com

Anti-theft satellite

The anti-theft satellite, thanks to the device which is fitted, is able to identify the place where you find the car, whatever it is. The device is called GPS, Global Positioning System ie. If a car that is included this type of theft is being stolen, the device sends a message to a control station located up to 10 meters. the cost, which is around 500 euros, could be a deterrent to the choice of this system, but many insurance companies offer their customers discounts not indifferent to all those who decide to install this type of theft.

It is definitely an anti-theft safe and widely used, as well as innovative. GT Alarm, the leading manufacturer of burglar alarm systems, created the GT Parking System, a sort of electronic eye that, thanks to some special sensors which is fitted to be able to notify, via an audible signal, if there are obstacles while we are parked or proceeding in reverse.

The beep is emitted by the device also 90 inches away from any obstacle and becomes more insistent as they approached. This device is particularly useful for those who often drive large trucks or as campers. Is a different story immobilizer is an electronic device on the market for ten years now. It consists of a circuit that is inserted into the ignition key through a microchip. This is essential to recognize the digital code.

In the absence of such a code is impossible to start the car. Since it was placed on the market immobilizer theft of cars fell in 1994 and 1995. A few years later, in 1997 the various companies dedicated themselves to creating systems that are better, more perfect, reliable and sophisticated. This until 2004, when veins you know that thieves had managed to find a way to clone the codes in the ignition key

Contact Information

Given the situation of car theft and considering that the thieves are very clever and quite capable to find the solution to get around any type of theft exists, now the question arises what can we do to defend ourselves and especially to whom to turn and how to choose the best system.

The choices will be determined by our mindset and various personal factors. The conservative people will not hesitate to contact your mechanic for not being advised that theft has caused problems during his work experience, ie the type of alarm that he was not ever be installed on cars that he repaired. Moreover, it will say what he thinks and according to his specific knowledge is the best manufacturer.

If we have time available we could think of to find information we need on the automotive magazines, not to mention expert opinion. Thereaders who work and means of these topics can be very useful for us. Younger people who want to find.

All information on web pages

Internet is an inexhaustible source of news, information, details and comments issued by companies on their websites. You can also attend forum community where you can exchange information and views and experiences on car alarms. Here, on the net, you will find, therefore, everything you need to install a good alarm to protect your car from thieves.

Obviously not all winter tires are the same: the best ones are marked as M + S are the initial letters of the words Mud + Snow, namely mud and snow, these are best suited to unpaved ground, and irregular. In addition to this symbol also appears accompanied by a mountain logo of a snowflake, which are to indicate adaptability to mountain roads. Tyre is also indicated the width of the tire in millimeters, for example 205, the rim diameter in inches, for example 16 and the height of the side in the width in mm, eg 55.

Knowing these numbers is important when you want to buy winter tires because we must follow those parameters listed on the registration document.
There are other tires on the season: the summer and winter Run flat. Being equipped with a rubber reinforced side wall, the Run Flat, allows you to walk even if you speed around 100 km at 80 km / h so as to reach the nearest tire.

M + S tires

The winter tires are classified internationally with the initials M + D as we have seen means Mud and Snow. The silica compound which allows the tires to remain soft even at lower temperatures can take the snow and make it compact between the road and rubber.

If snow tires put these in place of the operation differ depending on whether this is snow or ice. If the snow is fresh, the strong pressure exercised by the aggregation of ice crystals that make up the snow and the tire can get a grip on the road because the snow is in contact with more snow. If the road is this instead of ice, it triggers the action of the tires to strip, and these heating the tread, resulting in a temperature difference between ice and air, creating an adhesive effect. To be clear, the operation of rubber on ice can be useful to touch an ice cube with your finger and it will produce the same effect. Now many will ask what are the differences in structure between the normal and winter tires. Well, it certainly is a substantial difference in the design and tread pattern.

Consider the other components of tires. In addition to the strip which we have already seen what we are and what they are crossing the tread grooves and create designs swept wave or winter, unlike those of summer tires that are narrower and shallower. Plus winter tires have the compound composed of silica, as mentioned above, aims to maintain the soft tires, even at low temperatures, mixed with the rubber.

Regarding the design must be careful upstream from a possible rotation, ie all four wheels must be set in the same direction and must coincide with the direction. Do not be alarmed, it is difficult to mount because everything is fully explained in the instruction booklet supplied and should be read carefully before installing. Once mounted you must make sure that pressure is 0.2 bar higher than normal. In the spring when we take, we must take care to keep them away from direct sunlight and in cool places such as cellars and then if we wash before storing it even better.

Choosing snow tires

As we have seen the winter tires are very useful and important but it is also important to choose the most appropriate. The information necessary to provide the seller to buy winter tires that will make our case in the instruction booklet of car, where, however, will be written in code and abbreviations, so those who are not expert in the field will find it difficult to decipher and should seek help to tire.

In the booklet are first mentioned two fundamental information that is provided homologation measures and codes related to the speed. They are usually not binding, but you can choose between several measures, for example if we plan to use them on a layer of snow are often the result of subsequent snowfall and repeated, we should choose those that have a closer adherence increased, whereas if the soil is dry you can also use larger ones. The “code rate” requiring particular attention in the consultation: the law allows the use of tires with codes higher than indicated but not less. If you do not respect this rule will incur heavy fines. Below is a list of abbreviations and codes corresponding speeds:

* Letter Q: up to 160 km / h
* “R: up to 170 km / h
* “S: up to 180 km / h
* Letter T: up to 190 km / h
* Letter H: up to 210 km / h
* Letter V: up to 240 km / h
* Letter ZR: over 240 km / h

In addition to code for speed is also reported that a number indicates the maximum weight that the wheel can support, in technical terms the load too, as the code rate, provides a value higher than that reported in the booklet but not less.

Now, after choosing the most suitable tire for your car, remember that driving on ice is always dangerous, so you must travel at a speed exceeding 50 km / h. And good idea to check on cm of snow on the road to go before you start driving. Although winter tires are very effective, their function is in vain when the snow exceeds 20 cm and is a danger that the car remains stuck in the snow. If this happens we have to assemble the chains because they are more traction and trying to shovel the greatest possible amount of snow that lies beneath and around the car.

A diff-locker such as 4WD Systems’ Lock-Right is a set and forget locker. It allows power to both wheels equally but also automatically disengages for cornering, where the inner and outer wheel on the axle will travel an unequal distance.

For the Lock-Right, 4WD Systems offer a two-year unlimited kilometre warranty backed by a large distribution network.

The Lock-Right is suitable for a wide range of 4WDs, and the list of vehicles it will fit is growing monthly. The Lock-Right can be fitted by any competent DIY person in about two hours. It fits inside the standard differential carrier and is quick and easy to fit due to its simplicity. Even though each kit has instructions supplied, we’re going to take you through the 11 steps to Lock-Right installation. All it needs is one person and some basic tools. It’s that simple.

1. Removing the axle from the hubs

In order to remove the differential carrier both axles need to be pulled clear from the internal side gears (and away from the hub) just enough so the splines no longer mesh, allowing the diff to be pulled clear in step 2. Usually only 100 mm is required. In this case the six bolts on each axle are undone.

2. Removing the diff housing Banjo from the axle housing

The four bolts holding the tailshaft to the flange on the diff are removed and the tailshaft put out of harm’s way.

The 10 bolts holding the Banjo in place are removed and after either draining the oil or ensuring that a suitable sized container is placed underneath to catch the oil, the seal on the diff is broken and the Banjo (which can be a heavy item) is removed.

3. Diff removed from vehicle

The original components can be seen clearly with the diff out of the vehicle. Side (axle) gears with splines, pinion or spider gears, cup washers, thrust (side gear) washers and cross-shafts. Most of these pans will be replaced by Lock-Righl components.

4. Removing cross shaft

The cross shaft has to be removed to allow spider gear removal. Rotate the carrier by turning the flange or crown wheel in the housing so that access to the cross shaft and retaining bolt (some diffs have a pin instead) can be made. The retaining bolt is undone by hand and removed (sometimes a light tap with a hammer is required) and internal gears are now loose and can be removed. Note that the carrier is not removed from the Banjo, the crown wheel stays in position and the bearings, caps and their adjustment remain untouched.

5. Removal of spider gears and side gears

The spider gear is rotated slightly and can be removed out of the hole in the open case. Continue to remove the other spider gear and then the two side (axle) gears. Make sure the thrust washers on the back of the side gears are removed and inspected. Providing they are in good shape they can be reinstalled with the new Lock-Right components. It is recommended that all parts are cleaned, and inspected for damage or excessive wear. Any metal chips should be removed.

6. Empty case

The case should be empty and ready for Lock-Right component installation.

7.  Fitting the Lock-Right – coupler gears first

All Lock-Right parts, especially in the driver gear holes and spring pairs, should be coated with grease, preferably high temperature bearing grease, which acts as a glue to hold parts together during assembly. The coupler gear and the original thrust washer for each side are installed, first on the crown wheel side, then the other side. Use of the correct washer (the original equipment washer) is essential to ensure the proper tolerances are maintained.

8.  Fitting the Lock-Right — driver gears, spacers and pins

The two driver gears are greased and the pins are placed into each of the windowed holes, the spacer blocks are placed inside the centre bore of the driver gears, and they are individually placed into position with the teeth mating. There should be sufficient space for the second driver gear to slide into place. The grease holding it together makes this part of the process quite easy.

9. Fitting stainless steel springs

The Lock-Right now needs to have the pins aligned and the four pairs of bias springs inserted. Use a small screwdriver or similar and push the first pin across into the other drive gear – you may need to turn and align the second drive/coupler gear to do this. Now take a greased spring pair (one fits inside the other) and insert it into the window with your fingers or a flat screwdriver. Make sure they have compressed and slipped into their secured recess. Repeat this for the three other sets.

10. Fitting cross shaft

The Lock-Right unit is now aligned so that the cross shaft can be pushed through it. The cross shaft retaining bolt is replaced (use Loctite if possible). If your ‘glue’ (grease) has worked the spacers will not have slipped so as to interfere with the cross shaft – if they have moved you will need to use a screwdriver or piece of wire to shift them out of the way again.

11.  The complete installation

Now the Lock-Right is fully installed in the cliff carrier, the rest of the procedure is the reverse of the dismantling procedure, making sure to refer to the vehicle manufacturer’s bolt torque figures. Bolt the Banjo back into the axle housing, replace the cliff gasket or use an appropriate liquid gasket, re-bolt the tail shaft to the flange, align and push back the axles into the cliff and bolt them up. Top-up the diff with oil suitable for differential use. You can use oil additives but it is not mandatory to do so.

The Lock-Right is ready for the installation test – hand-turn each wheel to ensure each side unlocks correctly before driving it.

Now you’re all diff-locked and ready to tackle even the most arduous off-road terrain.

External components

Bodywork

For being immediately visible, is the first yardstick of used cars, but looks can be misleading, so do not rely too much not to receive unpleasant surprises. In any case, we consider some particular aspects:

* Visible damage
Check the presence of scratches, bruises and other signs: often the seller does not agree to repair them because of the cost is often high and often reduced the effectiveness of interventions on the body.
* Color
The color is a bit discolored for a used car does not give cause for concern: a good polish or a complete repainting solutions are optimal in terms of cost and ensure satisfactory results.

Aesthetics

Check the overall condition of the body, evaluated  used car from the aesthetic point of view to see if, overall, is to your liking, and if that is what suits you.
From the aesthetic point of view, the changes can be of various types, the size of tire use of unconventional colors. Something that you would never normally do not please you can end up in its final realization, but consider that the car is a commodity of which you should never daily stews, or you find yourself wanting to buy a different model in a few months!

* Miscellaneous changes

Changes that may be made to the original are of various types and depend on the imagination of the owner. Tires larger, different mirrors, stickers, air intakes and so on more spectacular than you can customize your car, but, as new owners, when they want to return to “normal” of the replacements will be fully your responsibility. For this reason the evaluation of used cars tend to suffer from adverse changes in aesthetics. You must also consider that, whatever the nature of changes, not all are required by law (as in the case of the tinted windows), some have to be declared on the vehicle registration document, which will be checked at the examination of documents car.

Tires

Check the condition of tires, because of the high cost of replacement. The tires are a relevant aspect of the assessment of used cars, check the tread, ask to check the bill introduced last maintenance operation, and if the tires are reclaimed.

Often, the seller does not pay the costs of replacing the tires, but makes you go “as new”, just through regeneration. This is a technique particularly widespread and reliable, so we will just replace the tread while maintaining much of the underlying structure, which is the true backbone of the tire. This recap shows the symbol R. 108

Internal Components

It is now time to check the yardsticks used cars with regard to interior spaces.
Consider that if the seller has performed a thorough maintenance and cleaning of the car, the cockpit will look much better. A tip: the presence of too many new parts can be grounds for doubt, the complete replacement of components such as the pedals could be aimed at deceiving customers about the true state of the car.

* WINDSHIELD
Where’s used car has not been damaged by accident, should be presented as new, otherwise, the presence of small cracks may suggest that it has been repaired thanks to today’s cost-effective techniques. In this case you can rest assured: the crystal is actually repaired as new, it’s important that they be informed.

* DASHBOARD
If the seller is actually willing to sell his used car, the plastic has been cleaned thoroughly so as to appear as new as possible, because of the costs are considerably high and therefore the low cost advantages of replacing the damaged parts. Keep in mind that the general appearance of the car clearly takes into account the state of the dashboard and has a considerable weight on the evaluation of used cars.

* SEATS
A new wallpaper too may be due to a partial or total replacement (operations quite expensive, though less of replacing the entire chair). This intervention is made in case of cigarette burns, rips or indelible stains left by food. The skin requires repair more difficult, so the important thing is not too shabby. To remain in the area of coatings, check the condition of the mats, the fact that they are new should not be cause for suspicion: their replacement cost is very low and, because it is not mandatory, denotes a particular attention by seller.

* ACCESSORIES
The importance of accessories is variable due to different degrees of demand on the market. For example, the presence of some accessories such as cigarette lighter is now taken for granted even in used cars, accessories and now standard in new cars, such as air conditioning, ABS and airbags, are a strong point. You can also find a navigation system that can have a decisive influence on the evaluation of used cars of high category. It can be appreciated even the presence of the car, built into the dashboard in some models, but always remember to test it. Finally, the automatic: If you, like most buyer do not have a familiar with it, think carefully before buying.

Mechanical parts

Let us now examine the heart of the car, its more technical parts from which depends the smooth running of your car used beyond aesthetics.

* MOTOR
It is easy to see what weight the engine has been on the evaluation of used cars, so if you feel able to judge it properly, take some advice from your mechanic you trust. After opening the hood, make sure the engine does not seem too new: the total lack of natural cleaning dirt could be an attempt to disguise the possible defects. Then speak with the owner, and if he is sincere will to point out the repairs required during the whole negotiation evaluated the impact of these repairs on the total expenditure.

* Odometer
The high mileage is usually associated with a car now “arrived”: this is where the car has never been maintained during the period of use, but not necessarily otherwise. It is true that the consumption of the most used internally (like the steering wheel), external (eg rubber) and mechanically increases the mileage, but does not substantially damage.

* POWER
Faced with growing approval of diesel to gasoline engine (Common Rail) in terms of performance, today it is almost indifferent to buy a car with one or other type of food. Compared to the gasoline engine, diesel engine by itself does not offer greater resistance in long-term performance: the power supply is not a significant parameter in the evaluation of used cars because it is no longer possible to say that a type of power provider in guarantees than another.

* MUFFLER
The fact that the exhaust catalysts has instead is an increasingly important, given the increasing attention to ecology by the automotive industry and bans related to pollution. It should be noted that all regulations are strictly bound to European. This does not prevent you from owning a car is not catalyzed, but you will be penalized when action is taken to reduce airborne dust and non-catalytic mufflers were declared illegal.

Documentation

Reached the decisive moment in the talks, as well as agreeing the final price based on an examination of the steps so far, is of considerable importance to ascertain the total transparency from the bureaucratic point of view.

It is necessary to control not only the presence of all necessary documents, but also their regularly to avoid having to pay the price to purchase concluded (although there is the possibility of a dispute). You should make the purchase in the presence of a notary and in the form of the sale, the only document that shows the actual change of ownership, which is why the bill of sale shows the ownership certificate on the back.

To extend its life, a tyre must run straight down the road, perfectly balanced, with an inflation pressure exactly right to carry the load on board and cope with the speed being traveled at.

It’s of paramount importance that tyres are fitted to true-running rims, and as a weekend of four-wheel driving can often result in a buckled or damaged wheel.

Even ‘run-outs’ of only a millimeter or so in the wheel-rims are magnified significantly by the time this movement reaches the larger diameter of the tyre tread on the road.

This lateral and radial wander unbalances the tyre, induces a higher rate of wear, and in extreme cases can completely wipe off the tread blocks to a feathered edge.

Mis-alignment of a vehicle’s suspension is another major contributor to poor mileage on both 4WDs and regular passenger cars.

In recent years the tyre industry has adopted the policy of ‘total alignment’, where a vehicle is aligned on both front and rear axles to ensure correct performance.

If the vehicle’s alignment is out, tyres bear the brunt of this in terms of wear and ultimate durability, areas already stressed by the cornering and acceleration capabilities of today’s cars and 4WDs.

Never accept that once tyres are fitted and balanced, there’s no need to re-balance.

In fact, as tyres wear their balance is affected, so if you’re really trying to maximise durability it’s a good idea to have the wheel/tyre assembly re-balanced about every 5000 km or so.

Regardless of a vehicle’s age or condition, tyre rotation – swapping tyres from axle to axle and side to side – will evenly distribute the type of wear each position induces.

In general terms, a tyre that steers will wear at the shoulders – while a tyre that drives will wear more evenly across the tread face but at a greater rate – especially when towing.

Inflation pressure is the other area that will have a significant effect on tyre wear. Low inflation pressures will result in more tread squirm on the road surface and therefore reduced mileage.

This situation is aggravated further if heavy loads are carried or continuous high speeds are maintained, without compensation to the inflation pressure being used.

Pressures detailed on the vehicle’s tyre placard should be maintained and increases suggested for high loads and high speeds adhered to.

In short, to maximize tyre life what you need to do is select the right tyre for you 4WD, mount it on a ‘true’ rim, make sure the vehicle is correctly aligned, and keep the correct inflation pressures.

The trick with trailer towing is to pack the right stuff in it, set up the balance correctly and drive it properly. For a start, don’t expect eggs to travel intact in your trailer, but tools, spares, recovery and camping gear will be quite happy.

Towing a correctly set-up trailer shouldn’t be a problem, provided your good quality, correctly inflated tyres match the load – they should be rarely more than 25 psi and often much less -and your wheel bearings have been recently checked and repacked.

Many off-roaders come to grief when it comes time to manoeuvre the little beast, because everything has to be done backwards, with your head craned around like an ibis. You have to push when logic says pull and soon everything is in a jackknifed mess and you blame everybody else and swear you’ll never tow another bloody trailer any bloody where ever.

It doesn’t have to be like that. The best way to back a trailer is by using your mirrors, like the truckies do, rather than trying to drive with your head half unscrewed. If you can’t see the back corners of your trailer in your mirrors, change the mirrors or put reflective plastic ‘wands’ or flexibly mounted flags on the corners.

Then practise backing, using the mirrors, on your own, in a very quiet parking lot, where there are no Rolls Royces to scrape. If you take some witches hats – old soft drink bottles do very nicely -mark out a little slalom course and back the trailer through it. Some people get the hang of it quickly, while others need a few such peaceful days before becoming successfully backwardly mobile.

Once you can back skilfully, the horrors of maneuvering your trailer into tight spots in front of a smirking crowd vanish. Also, you’ll be much more confident if you have to back and fill a bit when getting through tight spots in the bush.

A correctly balanced trailer, with its tyres at the right pressure for the road and load conditions, should trundle along behind through most places your 4WD will go, but very soft or steep pinches may catch you out. A tyre pressure drop is often the answer, but if all else fails, you’ll probably find it best to separate 4WD and trailer, then winch the trailer through. A hand winch is fine for pulling a single axle trailer which is usually a quarter your 4WD’s weight. If you regularly do this, a large-diameter, inflatable jockey wheel is a good investment.